neckline matters

Here is my pleated collar tutorial that's being featured on sew mama sew's blog today:

Creating a pattern for your collar
This particular collar looks best when attached to a blouse or dress that contains a placket.

Step 1: After you have the basic neckline of your piece constructed, you’ll need to measure from one end of the placket to the other. *Note: You’ll get a more accurate measurement if you stand your measuring tape up and let it curve.

Step 2: Add the neckline amount + 4 inches + seam allowances = your collar length. (example: 25in. + 4in. + 5/8in(2) = 30 1/4in.) Trace and cut out the pattern for your collar with a 3in. width. (the example’s final measurement would be 30 1/4in. X 3in.)

Step 3: Place the collar’s pattern on the fold of the fabric’s bias and cut out. Cut out the collar’s interfacing.

Constructing the collar

Step 4: Apply interfacing to one half of the collar. This will be the topside and the other half of the collar will be the underside. Turn down the topside’s edge 5/8 of an inch. Press.

Step 5: Fold collar in half where the interfacing ends. Press.

Step 6: With right sides together, sew the ends of the collar closed.

Start with a 5/8 in seam and curve the fabric as you get to the end to create a rounded corner. Trim seam allowance, turn right side out and press.

Attaching the collar

Step 7: Mark with a pin 3-4 inches from the shoulder seam to the front on both sides of the garment and mark the very middle of the back.

Step 8: Pin the collar’s underside to the garment, right sides together. Create a ½in. pleat at the 4in. mark and a 1in. pleat at the middle of the back. Baste and sew. Trim and press seam allowance towards collar.

Step 9: Pin the topside of collar in place, creating pleats on top of underside’s pleats. Baste and stitch in the ditch, making sure the topside catches.

All Done!

*The middle collar was created with a 4 ½ in. width on the fold, for a more dramatic neckline.